Slouchy Sweater Pattern

Today I'm sharing my sweater pattern. This is a sweater that I've made a bunch of times now, and it's SO easy!! Basically, it's two rectangles joined, and sleeves are added. I'm going to share my tricks on how you can customize it (including sleeve lengths) to fit anyone! There's going to be a LOT of explaining throughout my pattern, so I apologize profusely in advance. If all this gibberish is much too confusing, feel free to ask for clarification. I'm happy to help!

I'll be sharing my basic Women's Small/Medium size sweater pattern. On this pattern, I've tapered the sleeves as it goes down the arm for a more custom fit, but the sleeves can easily be made one width all the way down. Also, you can easily make this a short sleeve, 1/2 sleeve, 3/4 sleeve, or even sleeveless shirt. The hardest part about this shirt is getting together the measurements you need. If you can't get your hands on the measurements for the person you're making this for, there are TONS of comprehensive measurement guides all over Pinterest that I've found extraordinarily helpful. All you would need in those cases is to know about what size the person is (S, M, L, etc).

This is a sweater I made for my sister. Hers is 2.5" shorter than the finished length of the pattern I provided below. 

Thank you, Christina, for the picture!!

Slouchy Sweater - Women's Sm/Med 

(Finished size of product is 39" wide around (~19" straight across) x 25.5" long)

What You'll Need:

• Chest measurement & hip measurement (I get both and see which is bigger and go with that one. You can also get both, along with a waist, shoulder-to-chest, & shoulder-to-waist measurement, and then make the sweater more custom-fitting)
• Shoulder-to-wrist measurement (or shoulder-to-wherever you want the sleeve to end)
• Shoulder-to-hem measurement (from the top of the shoulder to where you want the shirt to end).
• Neckhole measurement (The measurement I use is from collar bone on one side, across the neck, to the collar bone on the other side. You can also use a head-circumference measurement and divide by 2.)
• Yarn (for my pattern, I use weight 3 [light] yarn. My absolute favorite to use is Baby Bee Sweet Delight yarn from Hobby Lobby. SO many colors to choose from, and it's SO, SO soft!) **For this Women's Sm/Med, I use about 2 1/2 skeins [approx. 940 yards] of yarn. 
• I-9/5.50 MM crochet hook
• Yarn needle
• Stitch markers

Terms You'll Need To Know:

• fhdc = foundation half-double crochet. I've got a video on how it's done. It's easier than it sounds, I promise!
• hdc = half-double crochet
• sl st = slip stitch
• st / sts = stitch or stitches
• dec = decrease 
• ch = chain stitch (these are not counted as regular stitches)

Let's get started!

Body (make 2):

Row 1: leavings a long tail of yarn, fhdc 66. Ch 2 and turn. (66 sts)

Rows 2-68: hdc in each stitch across, ending each row with a ch 2 and turning your work. (66 sts/row)

*Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing top seams together

**Lay right sides together and with stitch markers (or pins, whatever you have), mark out the two edges of your neckline. Now, there really aren't "right sides" to this piece, as you alternate from front to back on the rows. This is simply so you remember to sew it all the right direction and remember to flip your work so the seams are on the inside. Sew top edges together (shoulders) with a blanket stitch, using the long tail of yarn you left at the end of your work, from each edge, ending at the closest stitch marker for the neckline. Finish off and weave in ends.

Now, use stitch markers to mark the bottom of your armhole openings. For this pattern, I left 22 sts unsewn on each side.  Sew up the sides of your work with the long tail of yarn you left at the beginning of your work - which is now at the bottom of your sweater - using a whip stitch. Stop at your stitch marker, finish off, and weave in ends.

Flip your work right-side out, and move on to your sleeves.

Sleeves (repeat pattern for both armholes):

**Sleeves are worked in the round. There is no joining or slip stitching your work, you just continue on from one row to the next. 

Row 1: attach yarn to the bottom of the armhole using a sl st. Hdc 43 sts, spaced evenly, around the armhole edge (what I find easiest is to do one hdc on the end of each row of stitches on the shirt, doing the top two -where the shoulder seam is- together in a decrease stitch. This creates nice, even spacing and doesn't leave any big gaps open). (43 sts)

Rows 2-23: hdc in each st across. (43 sts/row)

Row 24: hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, dec, hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, dec, hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, dec, hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, dec, hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, dec, hdc, hdc, hdc (38 sts)

Rows 25 - 32: hdc in each st across (38 sts/row)

Row 33: hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, dec, hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, dec, hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, dec, hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, dec, hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, dec, hdc, hdc, hdc (33 sts)

Rows 34-39: hdc in each st across (33 sts/row)

Row 40: hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, dec, hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, dec, hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, dec, hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, dec, hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, dec, hdc, hdc, hdc (28 sts)

Rows 41-55: hdc in each st across (28 sts/row)

*Finish off and weave in ends.

And that's it! Seriously, this pattern looks scary, but it's so easy. Remember, customizing is easy, too. Just make sure to measure your work as you go, and keep track of your stitches.

Have fun!!

Remember, you're free to sell or give away anything you make using my free patterns. Please do not sell my patterns or rebrand them as your own. And please, do not use any of my photos. Thank you!